09.02.2011 | by: Meghan
Inns & Hotels

Trend: Swedish Forest Huts

Sweden

As the summer winds down, I’m regretting we never got around to taking our two little guys camping. Actually, what I’m really lamenting is that there aren’t more pseudo-camping options nearby, because even though I romanticize the camping of my youth, I’m kind of a wimp about sleeping on the ground as an adult (and the only thing my husband likes about camping is starting fires).

The Swedes seem to have it all figured out. They love setting up shop in the forest–huts, log cabins, mirrored tree houses, you name it. Not exactly camping (and definitely not glamping–i hate even using the word), but sleeping amongst the birch trees in fairly primitive, aesthetically pleasing lodgings. Here are three places in Sweden I wish I was spending my Labor Day weekend.

Kolarbyn
These traditional grass-covered forest huts are located by the shore of lake Skärsjön. No electricty, only candles–and there’s a floating sauna on the lake.

Urnatur
From creative husband-and-wife team behind the furniture design company and sprawling nature lodge, these primitive buildings are completely handmade. When there, you live like the name–which means “ancient nature”–suggests: building fires, picking mushrooms in the forest, chopping firewood. Even the fences are made from spruce and juniper.

TreeHotel
This growing collection of seven treehouses has been frenetically circling the internet since it opened earlier this year. Designed by Swedish architects and designers, they’re all uniquely innovative: the bird’s nest is almost entirely covered with branches, and the mirrorcube reflects the trees from the forest in its mirrored surface.

[Photos from top: courtesy of Welcome Beyond; Anthology via The Anthropologist; Treehotel]

08.31.2011 | by: Meghan
Homes to Stay

Stay: Didmarton House

Cotswolds, England


Another goodie from my article in T+L about the world’s coolest vacation homes, the Didmarton House is a grand, modernized farmhouse in the Cotswolds filled with flea-market finds, family photos, pops of bright color, pieces by Philippe Starck, and statement-making art. And… it’s owned and decorated by designer Joanna Berryman, who runs the London shop Matrushka (and was married to Coldplay bassist Guy Berryman–a tidbit that helps explain the chic, rock-and-roll design aesthetic she’s known for).

The Details
There are four super well-appointed bedrooms, all with cushy beds, rich drapery and great art. The nearly two-acre grounds feature landscaped gardens, tennis courts, and a small studio that sleeps an additional two people. Price starts around $2,140 for a week. Rent it at mrandmrssmith.com.

[Photos via mrandmrssmith.com.]

08.29.2011 | by: Meghan
Homes to Stay

Stay: Blue Atelie

Trancoso, Brazil

A few weeks ago, Mariana McConnell from Boutique Homes got in touch about some of their rental properties and volunteered to tell designtripper about the Blue Atelier in Trancoso–”a quiet, defiantly primitive fishing village on a stunningly beautiful stretch of Brazil’s Discovery Coast, a place that has defied the passing of time by staying true to itself.” From Mariana:

Blue Atelie is a small beach cabana modeled on traditional fisherman’s huts of Bahia. The exterior walls have been painted a soft blue that mirrors the bright colors found in shops and houses along the Quadrado, the main square in Transcoso. Karin Farrah, creator of Blue Atelie, worked as a florist in Sao Paulo and her love of nature is evident in the indoor-outdoor aesthetic of the cabana. Clapboard shutters on the windows and doors open up to a leafy garden and private pool and allow balmy breezes to float through the interior. Blue Atelie is located within steps of the beach, but you might find it hard to tear yourself away from the natural beauty right outside your door.

The interior of Blue Atelie is a mix of the rustic and the artistic, with decorative elements like an antique mirror and dressmaker’s dummy adding a touch of vintage elegance. Farrah’s artistic passion even extends to functional aspects of the decor. Instead of using traditional netting on the canopy bed to keep away mosquitoes, Farrah opted to use locally made lace, as she finds netting to be “suffocating.” In true Transcoso fashion, many of the objects in the cabana were not purchased but instead bartered for or picked up along Farrah’s travels. The entire atmosphere of Blue Atelie is light and airy and easy, with no separation between the vivid natural beauty of the area and the laid-back lifestyle of Bahia.

When I say Blue Atelie is small, I mean it. The one-bedroom, one-bath cottage only accommodates two people at the most. However, despite a small footprint, the cabana has a fully equipped kitchen and living area furnished in Farrah’s distinct boho-chic style. There’s also Wi-Fi for those who cannot be without their iPhones. Blue Atelie is a wonderful choice for honeymooners or couples who are interested in seeing a side of Brazil that remains invisible to most tourists, but a last note for those who favor tranquility in their vacation rentals: make sure not to come between Christmas and New Year’s Eve, when all of Transcoso becomes the site of a massive celebration.

08.26.2011 | by: Meghan

Getting Around: Kenyan Bike Taxis

These amazing, hyper-decorated bike taxis from Kenya are so, so inspiring.

[Photos: By James Mollison for Colors Magazine via Skip Town via t magazine]

08.24.2011 | by: Meghan
Homes to Stay

Stay: Alemanys 5

Costa Brava, Spain

I wrote an article for the September issue of Travel + Leisure about five amazing homes that are owned and rented out by notable designers, so if you stay in one, it’s like getting intimate access to their personal aesthetic and style whims, not to mention book collections, meaningful objects, ephemera and favorite pieces of furniture. The online version–The World’s Coolest Rental Homes–was expanded to 15 homes, some which you may have seen on designtripper and some that you haven’t. I’ll be highlighting a few favorites in the coming weeks.

For starters, Alemanys 5 is beautifully renovated 16-century house situated in the center of Girona’s old town–“one of the best kept medieval cities in Spain,” insists the owner. It was a crumbling mess when Spanish architect Anna Noguera and her husband, Juan Manuel Ribera, fell in love with the the place 12 years ago and only the stone walls could be saved. But now? You can tell a talented architect got her hands on it. Ancient stone walls play with smooth concrete, clean-lined glass and quiet, modernist furniture. There’s a veranda with views over the old quarter and a pool in the garden, “but what makes it so special is its refurbisment balancing old and new in a search of enjoyment of essentials,” says Juan.

The Details
The five-bedroom residence can be rented as a whole or split into two separate spaces. El Badiu sleeps 2-6; El Jardi sleeps 2-5. Prices start around $280 a night. Rent it at welcomebeyond.com.

08.22.2011 | by: Meghan
Inns & Hotels

Check In: Hotel Particular Montmartre

Paris, France (and Detroit)


My husband Ryan and I are planning a trip to Paris and Antwerp. It’s a long-overdue Christmas present, but I’m still waffling for a number of reasons: tickets to Paris are exorbitant right now; I love fall in the Midwest; I’ve been meaning to visit Porto. Coincidentally, our good friend from Detroit called this weekend from Portugal while he’s touring with Deerhunter to tell us that we have to go to Porto. He promised us that we’d love it–kind of dirty and utterly romantic.

Then  I remembered that someone was recently gushing about the Hotel Particular Montmartre. The glamorous interiors, designed by Morgane Rousseau, are indeed quite sharp but perhaps a little too fancy for my tastes–in a dripping crystal, gilded mirror, tufted wall kind of way. As I was clicking around aimlessly on the hotel’s website, I stumbled across a familiar piece of art currently on exhibit there: a delicate, frilly dress sculpture by fellow Detroiter and immensely talented Cristin Richard. Created from pig intestines she gets at Eastern Market, Cristin’s ethereal dresses–which do stunning job of exploring female sexuality, haute couture and the perception of beauty–are worth traveling for. Luckily, given the price of plane tickets to Paris right now, you can come to Detroit instead–the Paris of the Midwest.

08.19.2011 | by: Meghan

Aging, Empty Beauties: The Garfield Inn

Port Austin, Michigan



I rode my bicycle by this stately mansion last weekend, during a quick trip to Port Austin to stay with friends, and I nearly flipped over the handlebars. It’s for sale. To say I have an affinity for old b&bs, abandoned resorts and hotels of the withering glamour variety is a bit of an understatement. I spend a ridiculous amount of time trying to figure out how to buy these sad, aging beauties and restore to original–or slightly updated-original–splendor. I make my husband drive hours and hours out of our way to look at hulking old mansions and desolate resorts that look haunted.

Built in the 1850s, updated in the gorgeous Second Empire style, this grand manse is on the historic register–obviously, given it’s history, starring James Garfield as a frequent guest of the original owners, Charles and Maria Learned. And to make it juicier, it’s rumored that Garfield fell in love with his friend’s wife, and though there’s no proof, many say he requested to be transported to the house after being wounded by an assassin’s bullet. I was gushing about it to our friends, who, turns out, got married there. They had a huge tent on the sprawling grassy grounds, danced until dawn and then slept in that room at the tippy-top of the central, square tower.


08.17.2011 | by: Meghan
Homes to Stay

Stay: Red Welly

Ty Coch, Wales

This trifecta of rehabbed stone cottages in Wales was conceived by owners Miles and Julie Falkingham out of a desire to shelter three families or their own extended family in a place “with lots of outdoor space and a dining room that will seat everyone and a few drop-in guests.” After just returning from a long weekend with a handful of other families between six little yellow cottages, it’s a concept I wholeheartedly appreciate. Miles, who’s an architect, and his wife Julie renovated the old buildings, formerly a cottage, dairy and barn, then designed the interiors themselves, building furniture and creating custom lovespoon and jellyfish/polyp wallpaper for a few of the rooms. Outside, there are nine beautiful acres for lawn games, picnics and exploring, plus a pond and a little grassy lane that leads to a private, craggy beach (with seals!).

The Details
Sleeps up to 14 between the three cottages, which must be rented together, plus free camping for kiddos. Prices start around $2,000 for a week. Within walking distance to the village shop and pub. Red Welly is also dedicated to sustainable development, using local materials in construction and renewable energy sources, and they’re committed to preserving the land. Rent it at red-welly.com.

08.15.2011 | by: Meghan

Another Look: Wandawega

Elkhorn, Wisconsin

Sometimes returning to an old favorite is just as exciting as discovering a new spot. At Wandawega, David and Tereasa are perpetually making changes*–from a brand-new boardwalk along the lake to incorporating their latest hauls from the local flea markets. Here, right in line with her new book Found, Flea and Free, a look at Tereasa’s latest and greatest collections displayed around the property.

*In case you missed the post about their new treehouse–the most dramatic and awe-inspiring update of the summer–you should probably check it out.

 

 

08.12.2011 | by: Meghan
Inns & Hotels

Check In: Hüttenpalast

Berlin, Germany


Check out this nifty little caravan hotel in Berlin–with a built outdoor-like environment on the inside, including real birch trees. There’s also a cafe and gardens on the grounds. Best part? Super reasonably priced–like starting at $60-ish a night.

[Photos via Anthology.com]

08.10.2011 | by: Meghan
Inns & Hotels

Stay: The Marston House

Wiscasset, Maine

While I was on vacation in Maine a week and a half ago, I got an email from Justine from designskool, who wanted to know if I knew about the Marston House, which I didn’t. And by the stroke of kismet, it is also in Maine, and I was staying only about 25 minutes away from the sweet little town of Wiscasset, where the Marston House sits on a just-removed corner from the center of the village–all its streets lined with antique shops and every view over the harbor a postcard. When I stopped by that very same afternoon, the lovely owner, Sharon, was arranging fabric behind the counter of the shop, which sells a rustic, utilitarian and totally romantic array of culinary and garden antiques and housewares–brooms, stools, tools, metal pitchers, sheers, leather satchels, cracked cutting boards, waxed linen string, antique linen grain sacks and antique ribbon.

If I didn’t have kids waiting outside for me with melting ice cream cones, I could have spent an eternity browsing and buying up all the well-worn goodies she brings back from France, where she lives half the year (maybe you’ve heard rumblings of the harsh Maine winters. I can assure you they’re all true). Sharon gave me a tour of the two-bedroom b&b, tucked into a carriage house across a wide expanse of garden out back. She and her architect husband renovated and decorated the place with a straightforward simplicity, adding thoughtful details like an antique vase full of fresh flowers from her wild cutting garden. They’ve been hosting guests for more than 20 years, and it still looks every bit a charmer.

The Details
Each room sleeps two in a queen bed, and if you’re traveling as a family with kids, you can scoop up both rooms, which have an adjoining door between the two for an instant suite-like effect. $110 per night, per room. Breakfast is served in your room, or in the beautiful gardens outside. They also offer a three-bedroom cottage house a block away, and it’s decorated in the same simple, rustic fashion but with the added benefit of a kitchen and living space. Book your stay at marstonhouse.com.

 

08.08.2011 | by: Meghan
Homes to Stay

Stay: Spek Polle

Friesland, The Netherlands

Ben Lambers and Tatjana Quax of Studio Andacht keep us updated on their travels, which are always interesting and always stunningly photographed. Their latest excursion was a farm stay in Friesland, where they relaxed at Spekpolle, before heading off to Spain in search of the authentic Moor spirit. The historical house (amusingly, named after a food poisoning outbreak that spread through the a few of the households in the area many years ago) is simple and rustic–”nothing fancy,” assures Ben–but the surrounding Frisian landscape is pretty idyllic. You know, if you like things like bright green pasture teeming with galloping horses, wild gardens, orchards and a meandering river that cuts through farmland.

08.05.2011 | by: Meghan

Scenes from a Maine Vacation

Photos, from top: shells and sand dollars collected from our beach and tidal pools; a boat-building shop in downtown Bath (home of the first ship built in Maine–by some hardy English settlers–in 1607); ropes and buoys for lobster traps; the lobster tanks at our favorite seafood shop, Gilmore’s; all the yummy local food we get at the Bath Farmer’s market; sunset at the Kennebec River.

08.03.2011 | by: Meghan
Homes to Stay

Stay: Ocean Bluff House

Midcoast Maine

Last year we stayed in the 1800s Farmhouse, and despite our magical experience there, this year we decided to try the Grandparents’ house, perfectly situated on a stone bluff overlooking the most beautiful stretch of sand beach I’ve ever seen. The evergreen trees come right up to the natural grass and granite border.

The extended family has owned a number of homes on the property for five generations and counting. And I won’t get into all the history here (and there is plenty), but if you rent one of the homes, you can stay up late with a glass of wine pouring over papers, articles and photographs about the history of the homes, the families who have lived here, and the 600 acres of preserved land they have donated to research and protection in order to keep the land as it is. The family appreciates its privacy and has a policy of not seeking out press or attention for their efforts, but one of the grandchildren of the original owner has kindly agreed to let me share the experience of staying there.

And with so much history in these homes, there’s no shortage of stories. You can feel it in the old wooden floorboards worn from walking patterns and the antique furniture that, proven by one black and white photograph resting against the hearth’s mantle, hasn’t changed a bit since the late 1930s. The house is located a half hour from a coastal town where we go to the local farmer’s market to stock up on food for the week. And it takes about 20 minutes on a twisted, bumpy–sometimes broken pavement, sometimes dirt–road just to reach the house from the main road. It’s a beautiful drive we have learned to love. The trees grow like towering giants over the path, and the boys scan the forest for animals. This year, we saw a number of beautiful birds in the meadow as well as a mother deer and her fawn. One afternoon while I was reading on the screened-in porch, I heard a rustling in the woods and looked up to see a spotted doe standing just a few feet away. And on two separate occasions–and to our boys’ absolute delight–we had porcupine visitors to the house, two of which made themselves at home for the evening in a tree that stretched up past the second story wrap-around balcony, where the boys stood guard until it was time for bed.

Most days we spent at the beach–crashing into waves, exploring tidal pools, building intricate sandcastles and fortresses with moats, and collecting shells and sand dollars. At night we made dinner and ate around the extra-long dining table on the porch, before making a fire for those chilly Maine evenings. We didn’t do anything extraordinary while we where there. In fact, it was more about what we didn’t do. The house and all its charming details—down to every last note card tucked into a mirror and dedicated book of bedside poetry—tell the stories of a time before email and cell phones and TVs. Shelves are filled with old Italian ceramics and books and board games, and if you let yourself fall into the familiar patterns of those that came before you, you can almost imagine what it must have been like to live there. And for me, that’s what a vacation is all about. We were, for an entire glorious week, transported.

The Details
Unlike so many anonymous rental transactions these days, these owners actually like to speak with potential guests on the phone first. They want to make sure you understand and appreciate certain things about the property: an antique stove, for instance, in the farmhouse; no coffee shops or commercial strips within walking distance; that it’s a natural, preserved beach, which means no frisbees or beach balls or loud music. There are still a few openings for next year in June and early fall, so if you’re interested, you can email susan@midcoast.com with inquiries.